In the midst of tasting some of the greatest Italian wines on my recent trip to Villa Le Corti in Tuscany, we were invited to try 7 of the finest champagnes ever made in the world. My initial thought was “what a strange place to suddenly get a chance to try some of the great growths like Salon 96, Krug 96 and so on”. But who am I to complain if someone wants to open RM5000 worth of champagnes for me to evaluate. I instantly agree to participate!

The room was packed. I was lucky we had special arrangements to bring us in.
We had a real treat as sitting in front of us were a few representatives who were flown in from Champagne just to give us a running commentary whilst we taste the champagnes. On the panel were: Didier Depond (from Salon), Marcelo Luneli (from Ferrari), Nicola Sarzi (Italian distributor of Henri Goutorbe), Jean Louis Bonnaire (from Bonnaire).
I immediately suspected upon seeing the way the wine mats were layed out that this was going to be a blind tasting, and I was extremely certain that it was to prove a point. And it was so true - there is no free lunch in this world!
The objective of today’s tasting: To line up 7 of the top champagnes against 1 non champagne from Ferrari and it will be served blind to eliminate all external factors which affect the taster’s perception of the wine, and find out if the majority is able to pin point which glass is the non champagne from Ferrari.

The 7 Champagnes and 1 sparkling but we didn’t know in what order it was being served in.
But we knew what the 8 wines were. An impressive list as follows:
(1) Champagne Bonnaire Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs 2002
(2) Champagne Delamotte Blanc de Blancs 1999
(3) Ferrari Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore Talento Trento DOC 1995
(4) Champagne Henri Goutorbe Special Club 2000
(5) Champagne Krug 1996
(6) Champagne Legras & Haas Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs 2002
(7) Champagne Pol Roger Brut Vintage 1999
(8) Champagne Salon 1996

Bruno Bruchi (right) giving a commentary in Italian before the bottles were unvieled.

The foil on the bottles were unvieled one by one as the owners/importers of each Champagne/sparkling wine gave a short description of the wine.
I got everything wrong in my guess work except 2 champagnes - which 2 do you think I managed to suss out? (results at the end)
Anyway, here is a short description of each wine we tasted:

Champagne Bonnaire Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs 2002
100% Chardonnay. Delicate and extremely complex, it has an immense wealth of floral, leafy tones. Its short ageing process has imbued it with warm and exquisite fruity notes…superb scents of almonds and pralines.

Champagne Delamotte Blanc de Blancs 1999
100% Chardonnay from Cote des Blancs: Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Avize, Oger - some of the best sites for Chardonnay grapes in Champagne. You get aromas of white blossom, apricots and peaches and on the palate candied fruit and ripe citrus zestiness.

Ferrari Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore Talento Trento DOC 1995
100% Chardonnay. The only non Champagne in this tasting. Elegant and well-balanced, with velvety, well-knit fruit that is remniscence of vanilla, acacia honey and freshly-mown hay, combined with attractive floral notes. All of these sensations contribute to an overall flavor of great breed and remarkable persistence.

Champagne Henri Goutorbe Special Club 2000
70% Pinot Noir 30% Chardonnay blend. Hints of toast and strawberries in the aroma. On the palate, very lively with dried apricots and slight red berry notes.

Champagne Krug 1996
A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir & Pinot Meunier. A very intense champane with flavours of toast, mocha, ripe fruit, fresh pear, candied lemon, honey and gingerbread.
It’s been said that this wine could very well be the next 1928 which was one of Krug’s best champagne made this century. Only time will tell!

Champagne Legras & Haas Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs 2002
100% Chardonnay. Quite light and delicate, this champagne has a nice balance between toast/yeast and an “appley”zestiness.

Champagne Pol Roger Brut Vintage 1999
A blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. Floral aromas of roses with an underlying toastiness like brioche. Flavours of candied fruit and tanginess coats your palate.

Champagne Salon 1996
100% Chardonnay. This was my favourite wine and I picked it our almost instantly. I’ve always said to people, if you want to know which years are good in Champagne, there’s no need to refer to vintage charts and all that - just check out Salon’s website and find out which years they produced champagnes. Only 37 vintages were produced in the last century (1900-2000) - that’s how anal they are about producing good quality champagnes.
Salon 1996 is crystalline and lively. The bubbles are fine & active Aromas of green apple, followed by citrus, lemon and grapefruit appear followed by subtle notes of pear and kiwi after some aeration. On the palate, there is complex freshness and pronounced minerality. This wine is well-defined, virile, vigorous and with contained power.
The 2 wines I managed to suss out:
1) Champagne Salon 1996
2) Champagne Krug 1996
but both were extremely different in character albeit same vintage.
In the end, very few people actually managed to identify the non champagne wine from Ferrari. And this really reinforced the purpose of this blind tasting to show the world that Italians can make a sparkling wine of equal or better quality than Champagne! Bravo to the organiser and Mr Bruno Bruchi! I look forward to your next super blind tasting……..